Friday, 18 January 2013

Ploughed Fields & Allotments


Yet more terrain this week with ploughed fields and allotments.
I used corrugated card with the top layer of paper peeled away from the card and then glued this to a base. Then 'tile grout' spread over the edges of the card to blend it in with the rest of the base and when dry, white glue and sand for texture. See previous posts for painting terrain.
The allotments were card as above and just a couple of layers of small stones glued around the edges. The walls could have done with being a bit higher but I have misplaced my big bag of stones at the moment.
Make sure each layer of stones is left to dry overnight before glueing the next layer.





 





    

35 comments:

  1. Once again, fabulous work on those elements of decor, we believe it!
    All the best,
    Phil.

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  2. Nicely done - thanks for sharing.

    Frank
    http://adventuresinlead.blogspot.com.au/

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  3. Absolutely awesome !! The ploughed fields very good!

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  4. Great terrain and tips Pat.

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  5. Looking sooooo gooood !!!!

    If I just had the energy to make me some to....

    Very inspirational, Thanks !

    best regards Michael

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  6. Wonderful looking terrain and great post. I'll definitely be using some of your ideas.

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  7. Your going to need a bigger house soon!
    Greatlooking terrain there mate

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  8. great work, thank for showing us how its done
    Peace James

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  9. Another great article one I shall definitely be trying, I was only looking this morning at tarting up my last valley fields, this looks like the solution.
    Cheers
    Stuart

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  10. Hey Ho

    What an amazing Terrain you build those days.

    Im very impressed and for sure your step by steps are outstanding in this scene and motivate to build them for myself too soon after my Army has growen to a playable Division.

    Simply Awesome

    Thanks for sharing that with us

    King regards and God bless
    Michael aka Jaycan

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  11. Excellent walk through Pat , I shall pinch an idea or two .

    cheers
    Dave

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  12. What a great idea Pat! Very clever, thanks for sharing!

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  13. Super looking fields Pat. The corrugated card looks very effective. How long did all that take you if you don't mind me asking?

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  14. Thanks Chaps.
    Sidney, during the month of December I spent most of my hobby time popping in and out of my garage making the terrain. A lot of the time it was just the odd hour here and there with lots of drying time in between. I wouldn't like to guess but it wouldn't have been that time consuming as it was all pretty basic terrain building with very little detail work involved.
    Cheers,
    Pat.

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  15. Very nice - the loose straw/hay is just offcuts from the doormats?

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  16. Thanks Chaps.
    Brian, yes the straw is offcuts which have been glued down and then drybrushed.

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  17. These are absolutely gorgeous! What doormats do you use?

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    1. I purchased the doormat from a large D.I.Y store a couple of years ago, sorry but unable to remember which one.
      The mat was plain with a rubber backing if this helps.
      Cheers,
      Pat.

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  18. They look great and excellent guide to all of us thanks.

    Do you get 'warpage' at all? (Using PVA has been known to do that)

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    1. Hi and Thanks Rubixcube.
      The smaller pieces I get away with but when I go larger I start to get problems and have to try to counter act it. Any tips/advice from yourself more than welcome?
      Cheers,
      Pat.

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    2. I made some 28mm country roads in 30cm lengths using foamboard of all things (PVA smeared on the top with some sand of various grades sprinled on top then 'furrowed' a little for cart-wheel tracks and a little irregular flocking on the edges after painting). I found that when the top had dried, painting some more PVA on the underside counter-acted the warp.

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    3. Thanks Rubixcube, I wouldn't of thought of using foamboard for roads, great idea. Yep, Painting PVA or some paint on the underside draws it back a little, also I try and spread some weight all over the item whilst it is drying. I can live with a little warping, you can usually cover it with other bits of terrain.
      Cheers,
      Pat.

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    4. Yep - agree a little is ok. Forgot to say bevvle (...it may spelt like that... just been told it's spelt 'bevel') the edges of the foamboard. My plan is to finish painting my Old West figs then start onsome nice Carpathian terrain. I shall plagiarise your terrain ideas extensively though - blog added to faes ta!
      Regards Roman...... honestly ..Roman

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    5. ...and that should say "blog added to faves"

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    6. Thanks Roman, your welcome.
      Pat.

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  19. Great finish on the various fields, proves it can be done without looking like a door mat! I feel shamed that I brought a mat to try this about .... mumble ..... 20yrs ago and still haven't, might have to give it a go .........

    cheers
    Brent.

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  20. Thanks very much Brent, I just need to be able to paint vehicles about 1/10th as good as you have on your blog and I will be a happy man.

    Pat.

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  21. These look absolutely amazing !! I'm making some if my own when I found this post but I'm stumped about the color of the soil and can't seem to get the right contrast ! I'm making mine fir a CoC game I'm putting on at a convention in about a week or so..what colors did you use for your soil on the plowed fields ?

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  22. Hi Ricky,
    I used a Chocolate Brown for base colour, then dry brush with a mid brown, followed by a light dry brush with a mid stone colour.

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  23. When you say mid color do you mean just a lighter brown ? Sorry it's just my first time making and painting anything like this .. Would German camo medium brown work ? And mid stone ? Like a light grey ?

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    1. Hi Ricky,
      Do you have Sandtex Masonry paint out in the States, as this is the paint I used for the Choc Brown and Mid Stone. If not maybe you could google to try and see the colours?
      I have just had a look at my Vallejo paints for a nearest match and for Mid Brown maybe Beige Brown and for Mid Stone maybe Iraqui Sand but these are not a perfect match.
      The dominant colour is the choc brown, so only a light dry brush with the other colours. You could even try just a drybrush over the choc brown with Mid stone and leave the Mid Brown out.
      Answer to your question about the grey, I wouldn't use that colour. Mid stone is a warmer colour than grey.
      Hope this helps.

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  25. Ricky,
    It's not black but brown and the mid stone.
    Pat.

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